This picturesque Bay Area town’s new food hall is worth the drive

With its breathtaking ocean views and vibrant green hillsides, the draw of Point Reyes is obvious. From whale watching at the Point Reyes Lighthouse to strolling through the Cypress Tree Tunnel, the national seashore offers an embarrassment of riches when it comes to natural beauty. 

But once you’ve had your fill of the great outdoors, you’re going to need some fuel. Preferably of the seafood variety. And maybe a little shopping, too.

Here’s how to spend the perfect day eating and wandering around in some of western Marin County’s most charming towns.

A trip to the coast isn’t complete without oysters. And while I’m hugely loyal to the casual seafood shack the Marshall Store in Tomales Bay, Saltwater Oyster Depot in Inverness is where you go for a more upscale experience. The restaurant was only open for lunch on my visit, but it also makes quite a romantic date night destination (currently, it is temporarily closed until Dec. 2).

Saltwater has an inviting covered patio looking out across the street at Tomales Bay, but I opted for a seat at the bar, where a server shucked oysters before my eyes.

The air was brisk, so the broiled local oysters were calling to me. I ordered the Katz with fermented Fresno chili, garlic and lemon as well as the cilantro lime with blistered jalapeño and garlic. The two types of oysters came swimming in vibrant pools of liquid: the Katz orange, the cilantro lime green. Both options were plush, warm and bursting with flavor, one funky and fermented and the other herbal and savory — the sort of oysters that would easily convert even an oyster skeptic.

I supplemented my oysters with a bowl of red kuri squash soup, a warmly spiced autumnal treat made decadent by coconut milk. I jealously eyed another diner’s towering bowl of Manila clam chowder, but I had to save room: This was far from my last food stop.

First, though, I needed some time to digest. I drove to Point Reyes Station, a small unincorporated town with a few blocks of gift shops, restaurants and galleries so picturesque they could be straight out of Stars Hollow in “Gilmore Girls.”

One highlight was Visions, a newer addition to the town opened in 2020 by three local women. The tiny, psychedelic store is a millennial fever dream of twirly candles, quirky earrings, books about LSD and vinyl records. A stylish pair of cat-eye sunglasses caught my eye, but I put them back upon realizing they were $200.

Next I ducked into Point Reyes Books, which has a long history as a bookstore (since 1969), where I perused their extensive cookbook collection. For records, I checked out Loose Joints Records, a pint-sized shop that opened in 2021 with loud blue walls and a checkerboard floor. At Sea to See, another cutesy gift shop packed with ceramic mugs, jewelry and greeting cards, I succumbed to a soft pair of striped socks.

For clothing, though, my favorite was the Little Store, opened in 2019 by West Marin locals Terra Livingston and Sierra Swenson. Shaped like a charming little yellow guest house you’d find on someone’s farm, the Little Store is instead packed with vintage and handmade goodies, from cowboy boots to denim and cozy wool sweaters.

At this point, though, I was getting shopped out. It was time for dessert.

When Cowgirl Creamery announced it was closing its 25-year-old Point Reyes restaurant and cheese shop last year, the Bay Area was devastated. But fortunately, new blood has since taken over the iconic space: Wild West Ferments. This summer, the popular sauerkraut maker opened the West Marin Culture Shop, a food hall featuring fermented soda ice cream floats, a grilled cheese counter from the Farmer’s Wife, and tons of local cheese, wine and other goods.

As I entered the rustic food hall, the enticing aroma from the grilled cheese counter immediately hit my nostrils. Employees hawked samples of Wild West Ferment’s various pickled products as well as cheese samples (including, fittingly, some from Cowgirl Creamery).

After hearing someone rave about a spectacular Italian cheese that had the consistency of marshmallow fluff, I grabbed a wedge. I also picked up a bottle of natural wine for a friend’s birthday, and a jar of Wild West kimchi made with organic turnips, radishes and Napa cabbage.

Despite getting sidetracked by the shelves of artisanal pasta, charcuterie and chili crisp (there’s also a gorgeous flower selection from Flower Bed Florals), I had actually come here with a specific mission: dessert. Sidling up to the Wild West fermented fruit soda counter, I saw the on-tap selection was between strawberry and apple-lemon soda. I opted for the strawberry soda with a swirl of vanilla water buffalo soft serve from Double 8 Dairy.

When I tell you this is one of the best desserts I’ve ever put in my mouth, I’m not exaggerating. I even felt compelled to let an employee know how much I loved it, and I am not an outgoing person. The ice cream float made me feel like a little kid enjoying a root beer float at my favorite drive-in diner, but with a grown-up spin — the zip of tangy, almost kombucha-like strawberry soda.

The buffalo soft serve alone would still have been incredible. Made with milk from water buffalo in Petaluma, Double 8 Dairy’s soft serve is smoother and creamier than cow milk ice cream. As I sat on a sunny bench outside the food hall, I raced against the clock to eat it before all the soft serve could fully melt into the soda.

At this point, I was quite full. But I would be remiss if I didn’t try the grilled cheese, too. After a little more shopping in town to digest the float, I returned to the food hall and ordered the sauerkraut avocado grilled cheese from the Farmer’s Wife. 

Based in Sebastopol, the Farmer’s Wife is a popular farmers market grilled cheese stand run by Kendra Kolling. Now, these are not cheap grilled cheeses — they range from the most basic aged cheddar and sourdough option at $19 to a decadent beef filet and egg option for $32. But the sandwiches are quite hearty, and come with a side salad bursting with fresh fruit and veggies.

The sauerkraut avocado grilled cheese ($24) featured Wild West Ferment’s 24 Carrot Gold sauerkraut, creamy hunks of avocado, pepper relish, chimichurri and salsa verde aged cheddar. The sandwich was one of the most interesting and nuanced grilled cheeses I’ve ever had — a symphony of acidic sauerkraut, fatty avocado, melty cheddar and spicy pepper relish, all on perfectly grilled sourdough. 

I couldn’t stomach more than half, but the second half made a delightful dinner to reheat for later. 

Even if hiking isn’t your jam, Point Reyes has a lot to offer. Namely, delicious farm-to-table food and great shopping. Trekking out to Drakes Beach to see the elephant seals is already a winter tradition of mine, but now, I think I might have a new one: a pit stop for one of those perfect ice cream floats.